The right gap between acrylic fills

What a fill actually does

During a fill, the tech files down the old acrylic and thins the line where it meets your new growth. Fresh acrylic then goes into the gap at the cuticle and is blended across the nail, and the whole nail gets reshaped so it is thickest in the right spot.

That last step is the point of the service. A fill restores strength as much as looks, because a nail that has grown out carries its weight too far forward. Polish or a top coat finishes the job.

Any nail that has lifted or cracked gets attention first, because fresh acrylic can't bond over a loose edge. Small problems found early keep the appointment simple.

Signs you are due

The calendar gives you a rough date, and your nails give you the real one. Check them in good light once a week, starting around day ten.

A photo from the day of your last fill makes a handy comparison, since slow change is hard to see on your own hands.

• A visible band of new nail at the cuticle
• A tip that feels heavier or taps harder than it used to
• Corners that catch on hair or sweaters
• A tiny gap or shadow where the acrylic meets the nail

Why your gap may differ

Two to three weeks is a general industry guideline, and individual growth varies. Nails tend to grow a little faster in warm weather, which can nudge South Florida wearers toward the two-week end.

Design choices change the math as well. A French or ombre look shows the growth line quickly, while a sheer pink can stretch another few days. If a trip or event is coming up, book the fill two or three days ahead so the nails feel settled and fresh when it counts.

• Closer to two weeks: fast-growing nails, long tips, dark colors or French
• Closer to three weeks: short sets, sheer colors and gentle hands

What happens when you wait too long

By four weeks, the balance point has moved well forward, and one hard knock can snap the nail low, sometimes into the natural nail. Edges can also lift, and water collects in those pockets.

Trying to glue a lifted corner yourself seals water in, so leave it for your appointment. Staying on a regular rhythm also makes each fill simpler, because there is less product to file away and rebuild.

Waiting can cost more in the end. A repair starts at $5, and a set that has gone too far may need take-off, from $10 and about 15 minutes, followed by a new full set from $60 at about 60 minutes.

Green discoloration, pain or swelling means the fill should wait until you have asked your doctor.

Planning and pricing your next fill

Each add-on is about 15 minutes on top of the base appointment. A Color Acrylic Fill with a French starts at $70 and takes about 75 minutes.

Appointments are recommended for longer services and weekends, so setting a date two to three weeks out before you leave is the easy way to stay on track.

• Shaping, from $5
• Extra length, from $5
• Design nails, from $15
• French, from $20
• Chrome, from $20

Questions guests ask

Can I go four weeks between fills?

You can on a short set with slow growth, but most nails will be off balance by then. If you know you'll be away that long, choose a shorter length and a sheer color beforehand.

Can I change my color at a fill?

A fill is a natural time to switch, because the surface gets filed and refinished anyway. A big jump from dark to light may take extra work, so mention it at the start of your appointment.

Is a fill much cheaper than a new set?

At Element the starting prices are close, $50 for a fill and $60 for a full set, with about the same time in the chair. A fill keeps a healthy set going, while a new set is the better call if most of the nails are lifting.